Extension Summer08 Garden Packet 1
Published: May. 26, 2008
NOTE TO EDITORS: This is the first of three University of Illinois Extension Summer Garden Packet installments. The second will be sent on May 28 and the final one on May 30. Thank you for your consideration of these articles for use. Bob Sampson, Extension Communications Specialist.
May 26, 2008
Source: Ron Wolford (773) 233-0476 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Summer Gardening Tomato Tips
Summer can be challenging for gardeners, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Spring is easy--cool weather, no bugs, gentle rains, a few weeds--all is good," said Ron Wolford. "Summer is a different story--raging storms, heat, drought, waves of bugs and disease."
Wolford offered some tips to help gardeners deal with these challenges to cucumbers and tomatoes.
"Protect cucurbit crops--cucumbers, melons, squash, and pumpkins--from cucumber beetles and their payload of cucumber wilt with floating row covers after planting," he said. "Make sure to remove the row cover after the plants have begun flowering so that they can be pollinated."
The base of tomato plants should be mulched with plastic sheets. This keeps the soil warmer, conserves moisture, and helps protect the tomatoes from diseases spread by water splashing onto the soil.
"Some studies have shown that using red plastic mulch can actually increase the yield of tomato plants," he noted.
Blossom-end rot causes the blossom end of the tomato to turn brown and black. This is not a disease. It is a calcium deficiency caused by high temperatures and fluctuating soil moisture levels.
"It usually occurs on the first ripening fruits," Wolford said. "Water tomatoes consistently with the equivalent of one inch of water per week to avoid fluctuating levels of soil moisture. Mulches will also help to conserve moisture."
Tomato cracking is caused by changes in growth rate. Last summer, the most likely cause of cracking was the fluctuations in temperature and the rain pattern. Giving the tomatoes the one inch of water they need each week will reduce the problem. There are also several crack-resistant varieties such as "Jetstar" and "Pink Girl."
"Tomato blossom drop is very common with high summer temperatures," he said. "Tomatoes will drop blossoms when daytime temperatures in the summer are above 90 degrees F. Blossoms will also drop earlier in the growing season when night temperatures drop below 55 degrees F.
"There is really nothing you can do except to wait for cooler temperatures."
The highest-quality tomatoes develop when temperatures average 75 degrees F. Tomatoes may get mushy and not color well when temperatures are above 90 degrees F.
"During hot weather, pick tomatoes when they have a healthy pink color and let them ripen indoors," Wolford said.
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May 26, 2008
Source: Jennifer Schultz Nelson (217) 877-6042 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Butterfly Gardening
Butterfly gardening is not just a means to attract beautiful adult butterflies to the garden, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"It can be a way to provide support for all life stages and help preserve populations of these beautiful members of the insect world," said Jennifer Schultz Nelson. "It's tempting to think that butterfly gardening is reserved for those of us fortunate enough to have a large expanse of land. The truth is that many native species of butterfly exist in a very small home range, not much bigger than a small backyard."
As the world becomes more developed and natural areas are more and more fragmented, having butterfly gardens in urban environments is important, as even the smallest backyard can provide for all stages of a butterfly's life cycle.
"When planning your butterfly garden, consider the needs of all stages of the butterfly life cycle--egg, larvae (caterpillar), pupae, and adult," she said. "Search your local library, bookstore, or you can even search the Internet for lists of plants appropriate for a butterfly garden."
Generally speaking, the female butterfly prefers to lay her eggs on the plant that will be a food source for the larvae when they hatch. The adults prefer to eat nectar from flowers, but also benefit from a source of water. Since they are cold-blooded, they need a spot to warm themselves in the sun. The larvae need a sheltered place in which to form their pupae or chrysalis undisturbed while they undertake the amazing process of metamorphosis and emerge as a beautiful adult butterfly.
Some adult butterflies don't migrate, but they do overwinter in fallen leaves, log piles, or other sheltered areas in the garden.
"Butterflies prefer areas with puddles of water rather than deep water," she said. "This is easily done with a saucer filled with sand and soil and sprinkled with a dash of salt to mimic the minerals found naturally in the soil.
"Another option is to take a wine bottle that has a little indentation in the bottom and bury it upside down, using the indentation to hold water for your very own 'butterfly bath.' You can group bottles of different colors, sizes, and heights to create your own butterfly oasis."
Remember when planning a butterfly garden to think twice before using insecticides. While pests may be present, many of the insecticides will harm one or more life stages of butterflies.
"Many gardeners prefer to use the more 'natural' insecticide produced by the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)," she said. "This insecticide kills all kinds of caterpillars, even those that later become the butterflies you are trying to attract.
"You may be forced to redefine your idea of a 'perfect' garden."
Many plants commonly considered weeds, like milkweed, are, in fact, essential for butterfly larvae.
"You may consider allowing a corner of your yard to 'go wild' and let some of these plants grow to provide an oasis for growing caterpillars," she said.
"Whether your yard is big or small, rural or urban, we can all make a little room for butterflies. It takes a little bit of planning, but it is not as impossible as it might seem."
-30- May 26, 2008
Source: Jennifer Schultz Nelson (217) 877-6042 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Basil
The key to growing basil is remembering that it is a tropical plant and is extremely sensitive to cold temperatures, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"For this reason, many home gardeners choose to start basil seed indoors while the weather is still cool and there is a chance of frost," said Jennifer Schultz Nelson.
Basil is a particular favorite of hers--and many home gardeners and cooks--because of its spicy, sweet fragrance that is far superior to the faded scent of dried basil.
Basil needs full sun and well-drained soil in order to produce the most flavorful leaves. Water stress can severely slow or even kill a basil plant. The plants need plenty of regular watering during the heat of summer to keep them from wilting, and mulches are recommended for conserving moisture as well as preventing soil splashing, in turn keeping the leaves clean.
"It is tempting to over-apply fertilizer on basil, thinking that this will produce more of the leaves that are popular in tomato sauces, pesto, and other culinary delights," she said. "Heavy fertilizing will produce more leaves, but will reduce the flavor quality. While the fertilizer promotes faster leaf growth, production of the oils responsible for the distinctive basil flavor does not keep up with the enhanced growth."
As basil grows, it will eventually produce flower buds. If allowed to bloom, the basil will not produce any more leaves and those still on the plant will decline in quality.
"To extend your basil harvest, pinch the flower buds off as they appear," said Nelson. "This will encourage more bushy growth and a more sturdy plant."
More and more types of basil are available at garden centers each year. And, if you include mail-order sources, the list of cultivars seems to never end.
"Lemon, cinnamon, lime, and licorice basil are cultivars that have some hint of their name in their flavor," she said. "The most unique one I found this summer was green pepper basil, which did really have a very 'green' aftertaste reminiscent of a green bell pepper."
There is incredible variety among plant habit, size, and color in basil cultivars. Flowers range in color from white to shades of pink and purple. Leaf color varies in both color and size. Several deep purple-leaved cultivars are available, and there is even a variegated cultivar available called "Holly's Painted."
"One of my favorite large-leaf varieties is 'Lettuce Leaf,' whose large leaves have a crinkly texture much like a lettuce leaf," she said. "It is an excellent substitute for lettuce on sandwiches or added to a salad. To me, a BLT made with fresh garden tomatoes and lettuce leaf basil is a taste that surpasses anything available from the grocery store."
Nelson added that most people agree that dried basil is not to be compared to the flavor of the fresh plant. It is possible to freeze basil leaves, but often the leaves will turn black in the freezer.
"Many prefer to combine the leaves whole or chopped with olive oil before freezing, which maintains the green color," she said. "One popular method freezes chopped basil combined with water or oil in ice cube trays. The individual cubes can be used in recipes as needed.
"That way you can have a little bit of summer on even the darkest winter day."
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May 26, 2008
Source: Greg Stack (708) 720-7520 Contact: Bob Sampson Extension Communications Specialist Phone (217) 244-0225; rsampson@uiuc.edu
Hanging Around in the Garden
Look up. What do you see? Nothing. Now place a hanging basket in a garden space and what do you see. A colorful globe of flowers that will brighten any overhead spot for the entire summer, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Hanging baskets are very popular and a way to enjoy flowers just about anywhere, especially in that unused overhead air space," said Greg Stack. "But if you think that petunias, geraniums, and impatiens are the only plants to use in hanging baskets, its time to break out of the mold and expand your choice of plant, even mixing it up with a collection of plants.
"For something special and added interest, consider using plants you might not normally consider as "basket material." For example, using a plant like creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia) with its small gold or yellow flowers with dark centers can result in a basket that is an eye-catching mound of color that can trail down three feet or more. And, best yet, it will be colorful all summer."
Another thing to consider are annual flowering vines.
" Things like Thunbergia, Morning Glory, Spanish Flag, Passion Flower, Cardinal climber and many others will not only climb up the wires holding the basket but will also trail down making this interesting ball of color look as if it were suspended by the stems of the plants themselves," Stack said.
English ivy is often relegated to the garden to take up residence as a groundcover underfoot. But because it likes the shade it does great in hanging baskets in the shade. Think about it as a basket plant. There are many interesting cultivars of English ivy available in the garden center. Look for those with ruffled leaves, white or yellow variegated foliage, and imagine the possibilities.
Some of the more unusual annuals that are on the market are quite suitable for hanging baskets. These include the small white-flowered, and now pink, bacopa, blue fan-flower (Scaevola), the small-flowered and very fine-textured Diascias, and the Million Bells or trailing petunia (Callibrachoa). Another possibility are some of the new verbena cultivars and the licorice plants (Helichrysum) with its silver, gold, or variegated foliage. Both of these are great in that sunny, hotter location in the garden.
"What about lawn grass as a hanging basket plant?" he said. "Many of the southern types of lawn grass actually make great basket plants. There are cultivars of St. Augustine grass that are variegated green and white and are perfect for baskets. This plant loves the heat, and once it gets established it can spill four to five feet over the edge of the container.
"You have all kinds of choices when it comes to containers, with the traditional plastic pot being the most common. But if you want something different, consider a container with openings on the sides. These baskets allow for planting on the sides of the container and will in time result in a globe of flowers totally hiding the container. Wire baskets are also attractive and popular because they really look quite upscale in the garden. But be careful before buying or making a moss-lined wire basket as they do require special attention to watering and can soon become quite time consuming. If you want to cheat a bit and have the moss-lined wire basket work with the plants, construct the basket as if you were going to plant directly into it leaving out the soil. Then plant the plants in a plastic pot that is simply dropped into the moss-lined wire basket. The moss basket hides the pot and the pot helps to reduce the watering frequency."
If you have a container with trailing plants, nail some type of platform, larger pot, or other holder to the top of a suitable stake. Even a large tree limb will do. Place the plant on top of the stake and from a distance it will look like the plant is sprouting from a tree trunk.
Antique shops, garages, and storage sheds are also gold mines for potential containers. Items such as tin cans, watering cans (that can no longer hold enough water to be considered useful) make interesting containers. Very large tomato cans from the local pizza shop make attractive containers for herbs as they often have colorful graphics on the front of them.
"Where can you find unusual plants for use in hanging baskets?" he asked. "They are probably at your local garden center. All you have to do is look at what might be considered a "garden" plant in a whole new light and see it as a hanging basket plant.
"Don't be afraid to experiment using tropicals, annuals, perennials or even small woody ornamentals. Combine plants if they look good, even if it might be tropicals with perennials."
Even if you have large established flower beds, consider hanging a trailing plant in your garden somewhere to enjoy.
"Even if it's a grass, perennial unusual vine, or even a tropical plant, you're sure to get rave reviews for your efforts," Stack said.
-30- May 26, 2008
Source: Nancy Pollard (708) 720-7500 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
June Vegetable Planting
The idea that the vegetable planting season is over after Memorial Day is just plain wrong, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"The planting season is just getting started," said Nancy Pollard. "One of my favorite vegetable gardens was planted the last week of June because it was a new site, and a load of compost to enrich the soil did not get delivered until then."
The warm June soils are great for pumpkins, cucumbers, gourds, and squash, she added.
"They languish if planted in May, but they will zoom in June," she said.
Green beans are short-season crops that can be planted weekly through July for an ongoing tasty harvest that ends with the frost.
"Yet, cabbage and kale or broccoli planted in June will love the cool fall weather," she noted. "Forget about lettuce, though. Lettuce grown in the heat of the summer is bitter and bolts--it sends up a flower stalk and then goes to seed.
"If you have lettuce or radish seeds, save them to plant in late August and early September for a lovely fall garden."
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May 26, 2008
Source: Sharon Yiesla (847) 223-8627 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Designing Flower Beds
Five simple steps can make planning a flower bed successful, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Flower beds fill in the framework provided by trees and shrubs," said Sharon Yiesla. They can connect the landscape to the house, add color and interest, and truly bring the landscape to life.
"The five simple steps involve determining the point or points of view, considering existing conditions, deciding on a style, choosing a type of display, and selecting the plants."
The first step should place flower beds in areas where they can be easily viewed and appreciated. Look at the site and decide from what side the flower bed will be viewed. Some flower beds, such as those planted up against a foundation, may be viewed from one side. An island bed planted in the center of the front yard will be viewed from several sides.
"It is important to be sure that beds look good from all views," she said.
Flower beds do not exist in a vacuum, which is why it is important to consider existing conditions.
"We need to look at the existing physical conditions to be sure we select plants that will live in the yard," she explained. "Is the yard sunny, shady, or some of both? Does the soil drain properly and what is the pH of the soil? What will surround the flower bed? Are there plants already in place that need to be incorporated into the design? Are there existing structures such as sheds, swimming pools, and other things that may have some impact on the flower bed?
"Consider the visual impact of the existing conditions. What is beyond the property line? What are some positive and negative features of the yard? What should be hidden and what should be emphasized?"
Flower beds can be done in a formal or informal style. Most people go with an informal style, but the decision will be based on personal preference and perhaps the style of home. Some homes lend themselves to a more formal look, while others do not.
"Formal flower beds rely on symmetry for balance, straight lines, and sometimes geometric shapes," she said. "Formal beds do not have to be stuffy and boring. Consider using straight lines in the garden, but allowing the plants to attain their natural shapes rather than clipping them into hedges and formal shapes. Use more repetition to attain a very planned look.
"Informal beds flow with the natural terrain of the yard and often employ curved lines. Create balance without using symmetry. Achieve that balance using a variety of plant sizes and colors. Use less repetition. Keep in mind that informal does not mean unplanned."
There are different ways to display the flower bed. For many years, the border was the standard in flower beds. A few years ago, interest in island beds increased. More recently, there has been a great deal of interest in naturalized areas such as mini-meadows.
"These are all good choices for flower beds," said Yiesla. "The important thing to decide is which one is right for your landscape. You may choose more than one type, depending on the size of your landscape and the effect you wish to achieve."
A border is a flower bed that runs along the boundary or edge of something else. They are often planted next to a house, fence, or driveway. Planted against a structure, they are viewed from one side and fairly easy to design. Along a driveway or sidewalk, they may be viewed from more than one side so some effort is needed to ensure an interesting view from all points.
"Borders can create a feeling of space, since they are along the perimeter of the yard and they leave the lawn open and uninterrupted," she said. "They can be useful plantings for families with young children, since they allow for unimpeded recreational use of the yard."
An island bed is a flower bed surrounded by an open expanse, such as a lawn. They can be any shape, and irregular-shaped island beds are good in informal landscapes. Round, square, and rectangular beds give a more formal look. Island beds are viewed from many sides and present more challenge.
"Island beds have the advantage of being easier to maintain since they are accessible from all sides," she said. "As a design element, they can be used to break up large, open areas. This can be a useful tool for the individual who does not want a large expanse of lawn to maintain."
Naturalized areas can take many forms. They include a single bed planted with wildflowers and/or native grasses, an entire yard that has "gone wild," or a planned mini-meadow. The idea behind all this is putting plants into a natural setting. This can be achieved by using native plants, planting in masses to simulate meadows and prairies, and mixing plants in a manner so that it looks "unplanned."
"This type of planting can provide a relaxed, informal appearance," said Yiesla. "It also allows the gardener to be very creative and expressive. Care should be taken with naturalized plantings. A naturalized planting may look out of place in a typical urban or suburban neighborhood where all other homes have traditional landscapes. What looks good in nature may look out of place in a residential area.
"It is a good idea to have a maintenance plan in place so the naturalized planting does not turn into a "weed patch" in the eyes of the neighbors."
Since naturalized plantings may take a little more planning and work, she recommends starting small and expanding over time. Start with one or two naturalized flower beds and see how you like them. If the result is pleasing, the planting can always be expanded in the future. If it is not pleasing, it is easy enough to make changes.
"Proper plant selection is essential to the design process," she said. "The design will be a failure if the plants selected cannot physically survive in the site. In addition to hardiness zones, also look at the cultural requirements such as light, soil moisture, and soil pH."
Plants need to fit into the design visually in terms of form, texture, and color. Watch the use of textures. Sometimes extremely different textures may clash. When considering form, think about both height and width. The plants should physically fit and each plant should have enough room to grow.
"If you are planting small plants that will take time to reach their mature size, fill in the open areas with annuals, rather than squeezing too many perennials together," she said. "When looking at color, look at all parts of the plant. Obviously, flowers will provide color, but some other part of the plant may contribute color as well. Think about incorporating plants with colored foliage, stems, or fruit.
"As for flower color, take into consideration when the plants bloom and what color will be provided. Most perennials flower for a short period of time. It is important to make sure that you have color throughout the season and that the colors that appear together are appealing to the eye."
-30- May 26, 2008
Source: Barbara Bates (630) 584-6166 Contact: Bob Sampson Extension Communications Specialist Phone (217) 244-0225; rsampson@uiuc.edu
Landscape Elderberries
Elderberries can provide an attractive choice for a landscape plant, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"American elder (Sambucus Canadensis) is native to all of the eastern two-thirds of the United States," said Barbara Bates. "It can be grown as a small tree or a large shrub ranging from five to 12 feet. A profusion of flat-topped clusters of small, fragrant white flowers are held high above the foliage for a sensational display in June and July.
"These clusters can reach 15 inches across, providing a highly visible display. In late summer, large clusters of dark purple berry-like fruits attract birds. The divided foliage provides a soft texture when planted next to needled evergreens or large-leafed, coarse shrubs. The arching form of the branches offers a graceful silhouette on the winter landscape."
Several cultivars have been selected for superior foliage and color, she noted. S. Canadensis "Aurea" has golden yellow leaves that create a striking contrast when placed against a dark background. "Acutifolia" is a smaller cultivar reaching only six feet in height with deeply divided leaflets that provide a tropical texture. Sambucus nigra "Eva" Black Lace and S. nigra "Gerda" Black Beauty are developed from an elder native to Europe. Both cultivars have dark purple foliage, fragrant pink blooms, and red to purple fruits. The lacy, finely cut foliage of both cultivars mimic Japanese maples, but they are more tolerant of climate and soils found in the Midwest.
"The species form, S. Canadensis, is best used as a naturalizing plant or as a living fence at the edge of the garden because it tends to spread and form thickets," Bates said. "Elder also can be used as an understory planting. Be mindful to place them where the berries can drop without creating a problem. 'York' and 'Adams' are especially heavy-fruiting cultivars."
Elderberries are easy to prune, she added, because they stay a manageable size even at maturity.
"The stems are quick to renew if damaged by ice or heavy snows," she said. "They grow well when neglected but have a better appearance when given an annual shaping and thinning to remove old and damaged stems."
The fruits of elder can be used as a natural dye, made into preserves, pies, juice, or wine. Leaves, twigs, stems, and unripe fruit contain significant quantities of sambunigrin, which can cause nausea and digestive upset. Cooking the unripe berries neutralizes the sambunigrin. Cooking and sweetening of all fruits is recommended.
"Blooming elderberries are helpful in reminding alert gardeners when it is time to scout for Japanese beetles," she said. "Adult Japanese beetles are voracious feeders on foliage, fruit, and flowers of a wide range of ornamental plants and shade trees."
Favorite foods of Japanese beetles include roses, grapes, Japanese maples and elms. The larval form of the beetle (grubs) feeds on the roots of turfgrass and woody plants. Adult beetles emerge from the ground when elderberries are in bloom. The beetles are highly mobile but are easily spotted when feeding on the upper surface of leaves.
To view a picture of a Japanese beetle, visit http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bugreview/japanesebeetle.html .
"It is difficult to effectively use chemical sprays to control the adults because they fly readily," Bates said. "A slight disturbance of the foliage will cause them to drop and roll. This predictable behavior makes it easy to catch them in a pail of soapy water to be disposed of. Prized plants can be protected with netting once the adults emerge."
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